Lackner-Tinnacher Sauvignon Blanc "Gamlitz" '21

Located in southeastern Austria, Styria lives up to what you’d imagine for a stereotypical Austrian vista: a sea of green, vines, grass, deciduous forests full of spruce, fir, pine, and oak trees. What it also has are steep hillside vineyards that make harvesting difficult but offer perfect exposure for the vines; an Alpine-Mediterranean climate that provides a diurnal temperature shift, yielding ripe grapes with adequate freshness for both balance and longevity; and, finally, a patchwork of soils, telling the story of thousands of years of erosion. 

The winemaker Katharina Tinnacher draw inspiration from the land as well as her family’s history, which includes producing wine since as far back as 1770. She took over from her father in 2010, achieved certified organic farming shortly thereafter, and in a decade has cemented her role as one of the top winemakers in not only Styria but all of Austria. “Gamlitz” takes its name from the local village and means “hill.” This cuvée is made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc, from three different vineyards (Steinbach, Eckberg, and Türken). It is fermented with natural yeasts in stainless steel tanks and rests on its lees for eight months before bottling.

The resulting wine is a beautiful expression of Sauvignon Blanc, and one that is uniquely Austrian. The fruit seems riper than what you’d expect from a Sancerre, yet it’s not as high-toned as a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, and it’s not as herbaceous as either of those. It could be the Goldilocks Sauvignon Blanc, notable for its freshness, yet ample enough to make it an excellent partner for richer dishes.